Johannesburg and Pilanesberg

You can tell a lot about a city by its ATMs. Get $200 in Las Vegas and the ATM will spit out two hundred dollar bills. Get $100 in Johannesburg and you'll end up with a stack of bills – a few $20s, some $10s, and a collection of singles. Joburg is a working man's town.

It was a quick business trip in June, 2014.  I stayed in Standton, the Beverly Hills of Joburg. Built in a rush 20 years ago, when downtown Joburg had erupted into a war zone, it's architecture is a soulless and designed for security.  The semi-fortress buildings disguised as high-end, all built within a decade of each other, remind me of Orlando....transplanted into conflict zone.

It is a little known fact that Johannesburg stock exchange is in Standton.  It was relocated two decades ago and it has become the anchor for the swanky financial district. As a woman traveling alone I decided to avoid downtown, even though locals will tell you it is fine. I found Standton to be  ridiculously safe. The uber security conscious township has placed a security guard on every corner. Literally.

The real reason to go, other than business, is the proximity to the national parks.  It is a wonderful launching point for an African safari. I did a day trip to Pilanesberg since I only had one day to play on my business trip. “The Kruger" is a 5 hour drive, or very short flight, away.  I considered jumping on a flight to Kruger directly from my 14 hour flight from Atlanta but found that I couldn’t get a flight late enough in the day to be assured of catching my connection.  Flights have to land a few hours before sunset since driving in the dark in the park is highly regulated.


I hired a delightful guide to take me to Pilanesberg, Dave Moffat, from Khakiweed Safaris. Irish by birth, African by choice, Dave will chat happily and engagingly about any topic while demonstrating his incredible skills spotting wildlife.  He even taught me a few tips about my camera in the process, was kind enough to loan me his lens when we discovered we had the same camera, and gave me an SD card when mine was acting up. If it hadn’t been for Dave I wouldn’t have seen half the animals I did, he knew how to find them.  He absolutely made my trip.

In Pilansberg we did a pretty good job of checking off the "big 5" by finding a leopard, rhino and elephant.  The buffalo in Pilanesberg live up in the mountains where there aren't any roads, so we didn't have a chance of finding them, and sadly on the day we were there, all of the lions decided to stay hidden.  The "big 5" are so named because they are the 5 animals which, when wounded, will turn and attack the hunter instead of fleeing.

There are three lion prides in Pilansberg, which is about 125 km in diameter.  What strikes you in Africa is just how much open space is required to allow the animals to live. Miles and miles of nothing but miles and miles. But, as soon as you spend 5 minutes watching an elephant you understand why.  That's about as long as it takes for a bull to uproot three small tress and strip them of their bark and leaves.

Large bull elephant, I was told he lost his tusks in a fight

Large bull elephant, I was told he lost his tusks in a fight

The leopard was an incredible, lucky treat. We found him about two hours before sunset. When Dave spotted him he was lounging on top a rock, at the pinnacle of an outcropping.   As we watched him he decided it was time to head out for a hunt.  He popped up from his nap, quickly sat and surveyed his grounds, stretched, then promptly disappeared as only leopards can do.  The whole viewing lasted about 2 minutes.

Momentary leopard sighting

Momentary leopard sighting

The zebras kept our attention between "major" sittings. Their strips, attitude and quantity make them the clowns of the park. Docile when they are with their pack and hysterically nervous when they are separated, they are always photogenic.  The swirling strips, and the fact that they often seem to strike a pose for the camera makes them a photographers dream.

The zebras were everywhere!

The zebras were everywhere!

There was so much more - the rhino who decided to lie down right in front of us, the sun burned, napping hippos, the croc pretending to be a log, warthogs, wildebeest, kingfishers, girrafes, monkies, and the list goes on and on. Pilanesburg is teaming with animals!

In short, use Joburg as a launching spot for your South African adventure, but don't plan on staying longer than 2 days. If you only have one free day, hire Dave and dash up to Pilanesberg. If you have more, catch a flight to the Kruger!

Camera tips:
I alternated my Cannon camera between AV and TV mode. In AV I kept it in F8, switching to TV, at 1/1000, when I made a few attempts to photographs birds in flight (generally failed attempts). Dave recommended that I use evaluative metering mode, instead of the typical center weighted average for shooting animals hanging in the shade of a tree or a bush. This generally worked very well, with the exception of the pale colored rhino surrounded by bright space. That one ended up a little too hot and needed to be adjusted. Obviously take the best zoom lens you have with you, no matter what you have, you’ll probably be frustrated and want more.  I did not find that I needed a tripod.  I braced the camera against the car window or observation ledges in the blinds built near the water holes. 

Non photographic tips:
I stayed at both the Michelangelo and the Hilton. The Hilton has a very nice outdoor pool, otherwise it is a standard institutional business hotel. The Michelangelo doesn't have any outdoor space since it is right on Nelson Mandela square, but it's pleasant lobby makes up for that limitation. The restaurant at the Michelangelo, Picolo Mondo, is surprisingly good, actually even exquisite. While the restaurant decor is a little stuffy and formal, don't be deterred. All in all, I would pick the Michelangelo over the Hilton because of location, although the Hilton's beds are better. We also ate at Wangthai, very good Thai food, and Pappas, somewhat boring Greek. Step out of Standton and the prices drop.  I also ate at Grillhouse in Rosebank, good meat and very reasonable prices
 

Enjoy!